SILVERTON NSW

Silverton is about as far west as I can travel on bitumen in NSW being only a few kilometres from the SA border. All that I had spoken to that had visited said that it is a must see place and I agree, I loved it. I would say it is about as "Outback" as a town can be. From the desolate road in to the red dust and absolutely no water anywhere. In fact one local Lady that I spoke to said that the last rain was about 15mm last May, almost exactly a year ago.
  Silverton I felt had a lot to offer even if there are only about 12 or so buildings in total. It calls itself a "Ghost Town" with only 60 residents but is in realty a popular Tourist destination. The village is now managed by the Silverton Village Committee, which includes members of the local community and two Government departments. There are a couple of Art Galleries, a Cafe, an old Gaol and School Museums and the famous Hotel. You may already know that Silverton's iconic outback nature has been attractive for tha makers of many movies and countless TV commercials. Did you know that Mad Max 2 ( which I believe was the first), A Town Like Alice, Wake in Fright, Race The Sun, Last Days of Chez Nous, Priscilla Queen of the Desert, Mission Impossible 11, Razor Back, Dirty Deeds and Reckless Kelly where all made or partially shot around Silverton. And the Town takes advantage of that fact, the Hotel proudly boasting that it featured in most if not all of them. I can see why it is what we all expect an outback Pub to look like. It is open for business and I had a meal of Bangers and Mash there.

The Hotel c1884

                        Council Chambers c1889



 

     An Art Gallery built by a Miner by hand c1880s.

        Some nice artwork but no Photos allowed.

 

 

A trip to the Gaol Museum was well worth the $3 admission. Inside was a wonderful collection of items from all aspects of 1880s to early 1900s. Each cell had been filled with artefacts with an explanation for everything. If you ever get to Silverton you must visit the Gaol.

 

 

Now for a bit of History. When persistent searching by Prospectors around the Barrier Ranges resulted in the discovery of Silver and  Lead there was a need for a Town and Silverton was born. The Township, surveyed in 1883 (and proclaimed on 20th April 1885) provided all the commercial requirements for the district. In September 1883 the population was 250 and peaked in 1885 at 3000.

  The Silverton Municipal Council was formed in October 1886 and held it's inaugural meeting in 1887, at the Council Chambers that still exist. In 1888, the Silverton Tramway Company opened a line linking with the SA rail line to the newly found Broken Hill field. Repeated requests to the NSW Government to lay the line were denied, so Australia's first privately owned Rail Company was formed.

  As Broken Hill's larger mines were established, Silverton fell into decline.The Municipal Council ceased operation in 1899 and Silverton came under the control of the NSW Government. With building materials in short supply, many of Silverton's buildings were dismantled and transported to Broken Hill on jinkers pulled by teams of Camels, Bullocks or Donkeys.

 

Next was the Mad Max 2 Museum. Actually there are many cars scattered around the Town that where either following the Mad Max theme or where decorated by the local Artists. At $7.50 entry fee, I didn't think it was worth looking at unconvincing replicas.

The Cars of Silverton

 

 



And finally to Penrose Park, established in 1937 as a recreation area for the local Miners and their families. A large Caravan Park with basic facilities and almost nobody else there. I really enjoyed the outback atmosphere, very little grass and heaps of red dust. Less than a kilometre from Silverton's Main Street it had a feeling that complemented the Town and it was cheap at $14 per night with Power. I eventually spent three days here. Although Toilets etc are basic there is a lot of potential here, a well equipped playground for kids, some shady areas and even a Tennis Court. The your Caretaker was friendly and only wanted all to have a pleasant stay.

An Evening at Penrose Park Silverton

 

 







BROKEN HILL NSW

 At last, I had arrived at Broken Hill. A bit smaller than I imagined with really only one Main Street and a surrounding Residential Area stretching for a Kilometre or two. The main Street, Argent Street and the surrounds are dotted with some exceptional examples of Architectural Heritage. Now only a few Pubs remain but I understand that there was once 80 and around Argent Street. There are examples with Federation and Victorian attributes while others are of Georgian influence and even some Art Deco buildings of the 1930s. many are listed in State and National Trust lists.

Broken Hill Town Hall c1900

 



 

 

Broken Hill Trades Hall a symbol of the Towns strong Unionist roots

 

 

                                 The Courthouse

 Broken Hill Post Office

 



                            Vietnam Memorial

The College Building

 

                                                                    Broken Hill Police

 

Worker's Club

 

 

                       Carington Hall c1888

Old Shop Facade

 

                           Anglican Church

 

Only a few Pubs remain in Argent Street

 



 

 

                                                      I wonder if I am related to old Jabez

 

  A trip to the Information Centre with some limited information offered. The first European to visit the general area was Surveyor and Explorer, Major Thomas Mitchell. Charles Sturt further explored the region. Pastoralists followed in the 1850s and this continued as the main activity until the first Mining Leases were pegged out ion 1883. With the discovery of the main ore body "The Line of Lode", the BHP mining company was formed in 1885. A syndicate of seven became partners in forming the Company, all having some connection with the nearby Mt Gibbs Station. George McCulloch, part owner of the Station was the mastermind behind the Syndicate. Charles Rasp, a leading shareholder was a Boundary Rider. Phillip Charley came to Mt Gibbs as a `4 year old as a Station Hand and found the first Silver. George Urqat, the Overseer of the Station was also the first to pull out of the Syndicate. David James was a Contractor and well known in the district. James Poole who sold his shares to Cattle King, Sydney Kidman for a Bullock Team worth only 40 pounds and finally, George Linde, the Storekeeper on Mt Gibbs, who also pulled out. Unfortunately for those that left, by 1883, BHP shares were worth 400 pounds and the Company mined ore worth 47.000 pounds in the first year. I was surprised to learn that BHP ran out of ore to mine and hasn't operated in Broken Hill since 1937.
  To date after 125 years of mining activity, the underground "Line of Lode" Mineral System is 8 km long and 1.6 km deep, has yielded 300 million tonnes of ore, created $100 Billion in revenue and still supports mining. The ore body consists of Galena, a mixture of Lead and Silver and Sphalerite containing Zinc. It is said that Broken Hill has more trucks and traffic lights underground than it does on the surface.
 I visited the Lookout and the Miner's Memorial, a steel structure where inside the names of more than 800 Miners who died on the job are displayed. Deaths began from the first years of mining starting around 1885. Each entry has the name of the Miner and how he died. It is amazing that such records were kept from the earliest days. The youngest that I could find was 12 years old, the most common cause of death appeared to be by falling down shafts, being crushed by equipment, by explosion, via Lead poisoning and surprisingly, through heart failure.

 

Views from the Lookout

 



  Also at the Lookout is the quirky "Largest Bench Seat in the World". Apparently the Artist wanted us to realise man's insignificans in the grand scheme of things.

 Well that is my description of Broken Hill for now. After looking at alternatives for an overnight stay, I have decided to drive another 25 km West to the Hamlet of Silverton with it's rich History and stay at Penrose Park, a Bush Campground.

THE THINGS THAT YOU SEE IN TREES!

 I digress from my travelogue for a moment to show you that some travellers have a keen sense of humour some albeit of the dark variety. Here are some decorated trees that I have seen beside the Hwy at different places. I will update with further posts if I come across any more .
(PS: Click on a Photo to Enlarge)

A Memorial Tree on the way to Broken Hill NSW

 

 

A line of Trees 50 metres apart near Wilcania NSW