As any serious Australian traveller will tell you, before making the claim that one has "done the lap" the quintessential trek across "The Nullarbor" must be completed. There are a couple of reasons why those who contemplate this trip for the first time find the thought daunting. Firstly, the fact that 1180 kilometres must be completed between the only towns along the route, Norseman in WA and Ceduna in SA. Secondly, legend has it that the trip is across a treeless ,desolate, flat, plain and is an exceedingly hot, boring and an unpleasant experience. The first European to visit the area , Edward John Eyre in 1841 even described the Plain as "a hideous anomaly, a blot on the face of Nature, the sort of place one gets into in bad dreams". The stuff of mythology I say. It is true that the name Nullarbor is derived from the Latin: nullus, "no", and arbor, "tree" and sure, it is a long and tiring trip if trying to do it in a hurry. I took 5 days to complete the task moving a maximum of 200 to 250 kms per day between free camps and less than 100 kms a couple of times due to the many Road Trains that I came across on one section or to inclement weather. I was never bored as the majority of the country is an ever changing scene with some parts covered in woodland and others of spinifex, mallee scrub, saltbush and bluebush or a combination of any. In fact the only truly treeless part is a relatively short section on the SA side through the Nullarbor National Park. There are no trees because the soil is a shallow calcium-rich loam derived mainly from sea shells. At 250,000 km2, Nullarbor is the largest block of limestone, or karst (limestone characterised by caves and underground drainage) on Earth, that was raised from the sea 3 million years ago.
It is not always flat either with the occasional low hill and even a lookout near Madura Roadhouse and plenty of wildlife too. On one day after some overnight rain I counted on separate occasions 35 large kangaroos by the roadside sipping from shallow puddles. To further reduce any chance of boredom there are 10 Roadhouses between Norseman and Ceduna the longest separation being only 185 kms. Apart from frequent fuel and food buying opportunities there was also Caiguna Blowhole, Australia's longest straight road at 146.6 kms, Madura Pass lookout and the Bunda Cliffs to keep me interested with many other sites to visit if one wished.
So I completed my first crossing with many more to come I hope and can confidently say that at least this time it was an enjoyable piece of cake.
Madura Pass Lookout
