THE SISTER TOWNS of KOONDROOK Vic and BARHAM NSW

 One of those strange situations where two Towns are separated by a State Border, in this case the Murray River. Both are tiny with Koondrook the smaller, a Pub and a shop and a Lions park beside the river. Across a great, old, one-lane, wooden Bridge and into Barham. Two Main Streets with two Pubs this time, an IGA Supermarket, a Garage, a couple of eateries and another Community Common by the Murray.
  I had previously checked out some Free Camps off the main Road and beside the River, along dirt roads and then rough tracks to clearings on the River bank. Theses didn't appeal so off to the Koondrook Riverside Caravan Park for $25, small and old but clean and with hot showers. Next morning was sightseeing and some photos. It only took about half an hour, they ARE small, then off along the Murray valley Hwy towards Mildura.

Koondrook Vic

 



 

 

Barham NSW

 

GREENS LAKE Vic

  Deniliquin to Green's Lake and I have reached a milestone in this adventure. Why Green's Lake? simply put it is a favourite haunt of Members of "The Grey Nomads Forum" of which I am also a member. I had never met any others in person only corresponding via the Internet so was keen to see if anyone was there. As it is getting close to Easter I thought that I had a good chance.
  The Lake is on the road between Echuca and Shepparton in Victoria near the small town of Rochester. I stopped at Echuca, very busy with Tourists, had a Ned Kelly Pie (with egg and cheese!) at the big Bakery which was pretty good ( a 7.5 on my scale). Very commercial is Echuca, it even has parking meters. I will have a look around later  as I wanted to get to Green's, another 50 km further on.
   Driving into the site from the main road on a reasonable dirt stretch for a kilometre or so, I arrived at an expansive Campground on one shore of a medium sized lake. Camping was possible for a kilometre or so left and right of the central, small, Toilet Block. 4 Caravans and a tent here, surely at least one of the was a Forum Member. Aha, I spied a name I new on the back of one caravan "Dougwe", a regular contributor. straight over to say "Hello" and Doug indeed new my Forum name "Solo Steve". I have met my first "Grey Nomad". It came to pass that there were other members camped nearby Terry (TCP99), Ziggy (Esperidin) in the tent, Jules (Jules47) and Billy (Billeeeeeee) travelling together in a Winnebago and a couple of days later Patty (Halfpint) and Jim (Jimbo). Also Wombat, not a member, who has been here for 5 months, adopted by the others and a great bloke. Within a hour I had met them all. Although none of us had met face to face previously, the common interest of living either full or part time on the road resulted in an immediate sense of camaraderie.
  The site itself is unremarkable, today it is hot (mid 30s) and still. Originally setting up camp next to Doug on the shore, I soon moved to a spot under trees as some shade was essential. Since this the Easter break was a couple of days away, I wanted to stay off the roads so I will stay here at Green's for a week.
 During my stay there were many opportunities for get- together usually at mid morning and in the evening where laughs were had tales of past travels told and tips passed around. Some had been on the road for quite a long time into  their experiences and knowledge was invaluable to me. As I got to know them all better over the days together, I knew that long term friendships had been born. As the week progressed and the holiday period was near the number of campers grew considerably until there must have been of hundred or more some from local communities I expect. The Lake is popular with and speedboats were aplenty. Fortunately our group was left alone with no others seemingly wanting to camp nearby. Over the holiday weekend other Members whole lived close by came and went, at one stage I think more than a dozen were in a circle chatting. Each day seemed better than the last with no friction and everyone getting along.
 Now it is the evening of the last day of the Easter break and all of the other local campers have left. Our group will split up tomorrow, I am heading for Broken Hill via Mildura which will take about a week of travelling, some Free Camping and a Caravan park or two. Others are heading for chasing warm weather and at least two are staying on for a while longer. We have all exchanged contact details and will go our separate ways until we meet again maybe at Green's Lake or maybe elsewhere.

 
 

ARDLETHAN to DENILIQUIN NSW

  Unless I can find a place to stay on the way this leg is well over 250 kms through very flat and featureless country. First stop, Narrandera, a bit stale I thought, busy with Saturday morning shoppers and not much to look at. A large Info Centre for some sketchy details. Fortunately, right next door was a "Tiger Moth" display with a fully  restored Aircraft with free admission. I had never seen one close up before. How did they fly those things? I spent a while here reading the Information panels and watching a video of a local Airman recounting his experiences, fascinating. Outside and an imposing Church nearby caught my eye. Maybe my initial impression of staleness was impertinent indeed, some of the other buildings I came across during my drive around were worth recording.
  Originally, Narrandera was the home of the Narrungdera clan of the Wiradjuri tribe of Aboriginals. Early prosperity was derived from the squatter era hence the heritage Buildings and European style tree plantings. In fact the Township has been classified as an Urban conservation Area.

 Narrandera Police Station

 



                                                                                                        Narrandera Station

 Narrandera Courthouse

 



                                                                           Narrandera Halls Building

 

                                                                      Narrandera NAB

 

                                 Narrandera Shops



                         Narrandera Pubs                          



Narrandera Tiger Moth Display

 

  Where to now? I chose Leeton in fact backtracking to the NW, only 30 km though. I was there around 40 years ago and worked at picking fruit on the farms nearby. Ii looked as though nothing had changed, the lovely old Art Decor Roxy Theatre, still in operation. I remember we had to wear a tie to get in back then. A couple more nice buildings in an otherwise boring Main Street, the big Hydro Majestic Hotel, not trading these days and in need of restoration and the huge twin Water Towers, designed by Burley Griffin, in the middle of a side street.

I Love an Old Theatre

                          The Hydro at Leeton

                                                                                  Leeton Council Chambers

 

Burley Griffin Water Towers in Leeton

 

 

  I forgot to mention Yanco only 5 kms from Leeton which one must pass through. I remember getting into a fight there when I was 18.

Yanco Pub c1930

  Leeton and Yanco exist due to a wealthy Irish Landowner named Samuel McCaughey who demonstrated that irrigation was possible on his property "North Yanco". he built dams and redirected water to prove that it could be done. His influence resulted in the construction and a giant Irrigation  System in 1906 and in 1912, the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area was officially opened. Leeton's layout was influenced by designs from Walter Burley griffin and his Wife Marion who also designed Griffith and of course Canberra. Only 600 people lived in Leeton in  1913 mostly in tents and grew slowly until post War Soldier's settlement in 1922 when the Town entered a boom period. The streetscape was influenced by the Art Deco period of 1920s - 30s that featured geometric forms, cantilevered awnings and a streamlined profile. Most Art Deco façades have been preserved.
  Onward and westward now, to Hay along the monotonously flat and straight Sturt Hwy. About half way from Leeton to Hay lies Darlington Point, a documented overnight Free Camp where I might stay. A Pub, Takeaway Shop and a few houses, familiar? 

Darlington Point Hotel c1925

 





 A listed Free camp was closed off by a fence and the only alternative, an uninviting small Caravan Park wasn't what I was looking for so I abandoned the idea of staying here tonight. The trouble was it was getting late and I doubted that I could make it to hay before dark. A quick look at "Camps Australia Wide" and it pointed to a roadside overnight Rest Stop beside the Murrumbidgee. 60 kms further on and I was at "The Birdcage" Rest Area. Why it is called that I cannot explain, there wasn't a bird to be seen. There was a Drop Toilet and Tables under shelter with two caravans parked close by and a few Campers chatting. This will have to do, I expect that passing B-Doubles all night will be on but its now too late to continue. Oh and the River was miles away somewhere in the bush. Luckily, the two Couples travelling together turned out to be friendly, inviting me to join them for a coffee and a yarn. I have learnt that one can stay apart from other campers in such  places however, to do so without receiving some kind of invitation is rare and difficult to refuse. Another caravan has just arrived and a new couple have joined in the conversation. Its a great way to pick up tips as many times I have met seasoned travellers who know the ropes. The others left before me next morning, I seem to have trouble getting going early.

 

The Birdcage Rest Stop

 



  Hay is at the junction of the Sturt Hwy and my new route, the Cobb Hwy also known as "The Long Paddock"  turning 90 degrees to the South. The Long Paddock is right mile after mile of straight road with little traffic and flat nothingness in every direction. It will be hard to keep awake without someone to talk to, no Radio Stations to listen to either. Hay itself has little to offer. In fact I could find absolutely nothing to point out to you dear Reader on this leg.

Notable Buildings in Hay

 





And so with tiredness looming I arrived at Deniliquin at 1.30pm. This will do for the day and so after lunch (at Macas) the Riverside Caravan Park was my calling. After clothes washing at the usual "Pay-as-u-go" laundry at the Park and a welcome long, hot, shower I did freshen up. Fortunately I had been directed to a spot right next to the Edward River, a peaceful surrounding in which to settle.
  Deniliquin lies within the traditional lands of the Wamba Wamba and Perrepa Perrepa Aboriginal nations, two names that I had not come across before. during the thousands of years of their occupation they must have witnessed the change of course of the Murray River that created what is now known by its traditional name, Kolety (pronounced Koltech) River also known as the Edward. The River runs through the centre of a Town that was once a crossing place. With a population of 8000 it is of reasonable extent. History dates back to 1840 when the Edward River was discovered. By 1843 a large landholding of 700,000 acres had been established with further development culminating in the gazetting of a town in 1850. Today, while the district still supports a thriving Wool Industry, there is a greater emphasis on the production of Beef Cattle, Fat Lambs, Oil seeds, Dairying and Cereal Crops. Deniliquin is also now the centre of an extensive Rice growing region and is home to one of the largest Rice Mills in the world.
  Its been a long road from Ardlethan to Deniliquin for sure.

The Edward River Deniliquin