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Saturday 13 April 2013

ARDLETHAN to DENILIQUIN NSW

  Unless I can find a place to stay on the way this leg is well over 250 kms through very flat and featureless country. First stop, Narrandera, a bit stale I thought, busy with Saturday morning shoppers and not much to look at. A large Info Centre for some sketchy details. Fortunately, right next door was a "Tiger Moth" display with a fully  restored Aircraft with free admission. I had never seen one close up before. How did they fly those things? I spent a while here reading the Information panels and watching a video of a local Airman recounting his experiences, fascinating. Outside and an imposing Church nearby caught my eye. Maybe my initial impression of staleness was impertinent indeed, some of the other buildings I came across during my drive around were worth recording.
  Originally, Narrandera was the home of the Narrungdera clan of the Wiradjuri tribe of Aboriginals. Early prosperity was derived from the squatter era hence the heritage Buildings and European style tree plantings. In fact the Township has been classified as an Urban conservation Area.



 Narrandera Police Station
 

                                                                                                        Narrandera Station



 Narrandera Courthouse
 

                                                                           Narrandera Halls Building
 
                                                                      Narrandera NAB
 
                                 Narrandera Shops

                         Narrandera Pubs                          






Narrandera Tiger Moth Display
 






  Where to now? I chose Leeton in fact backtracking to the NW, only 30 km though. I was there around 40 years ago and worked at picking fruit on the farms nearby. Ii looked as though nothing had changed, the lovely old Art Decor Roxy Theatre, still in operation. I remember we had to wear a tie to get in back then. A couple more nice buildings in an otherwise boring Main Street, the big Hydro Majestic Hotel, not trading these days and in need of restoration and the huge twin Water Towers, designed by Burley Griffin, in the middle of a side street.

I Love an Old Theatre

                          The Hydro at Leeton

                                                                                  Leeton Council Chambers
 
Burley Griffin Water Towers in Leeton
 
 


  I forgot to mention Yanco only 5 kms from Leeton which one must pass through. I remember getting into a fight there when I was 18.

Yanco Pub c1930
  Leeton and Yanco exist due to a wealthy Irish Landowner named Samuel McCaughey who demonstrated that irrigation was possible on his property "North Yanco". he built dams and redirected water to prove that it could be done. His influence resulted in the construction and a giant Irrigation  System in 1906 and in 1912, the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area was officially opened. Leeton's layout was influenced by designs from Walter Burley griffin and his Wife Marion who also designed Griffith and of course Canberra. Only 600 people lived in Leeton in  1913 mostly in tents and grew slowly until post War Soldier's settlement in 1922 when the Town entered a boom period. The streetscape was influenced by the Art Deco period of 1920s - 30s that featured geometric forms, cantilevered awnings and a streamlined profile. Most Art Deco façades have been preserved.
  Onward and westward now, to Hay along the monotonously flat and straight Sturt Hwy. About half way from Leeton to Hay lies Darlington Point, a documented overnight Free Camp where I might stay. A Pub, Takeaway Shop and a few houses, familiar? 


Darlington Point Hotel c1925
 


 A listed Free camp was closed off by a fence and the only alternative, an uninviting small Caravan Park wasn't what I was looking for so I abandoned the idea of staying here tonight. The trouble was it was getting late and I doubted that I could make it to hay before dark. A quick look at "Camps Australia Wide" and it pointed to a roadside overnight Rest Stop beside the Murrumbidgee. 60 kms further on and I was at "The Birdcage" Rest Area. Why it is called that I cannot explain, there wasn't a bird to be seen. There was a Drop Toilet and Tables under shelter with two caravans parked close by and a few Campers chatting. This will have to do, I expect that passing B-Doubles all night will be on but its now too late to continue. Oh and the River was miles away somewhere in the bush. Luckily, the two Couples travelling together turned out to be friendly, inviting me to join them for a coffee and a yarn. I have learnt that one can stay apart from other campers in such  places however, to do so without receiving some kind of invitation is rare and difficult to refuse. Another caravan has just arrived and a new couple have joined in the conversation. Its a great way to pick up tips as many times I have met seasoned travellers who know the ropes. The others left before me next morning, I seem to have trouble getting going early.
 
The Birdcage Rest Stop
 




  Hay is at the junction of the Sturt Hwy and my new route, the Cobb Hwy also known as "The Long Paddock"  turning 90 degrees to the South. The Long Paddock is right mile after mile of straight road with little traffic and flat nothingness in every direction. It will be hard to keep awake without someone to talk to, no Radio Stations to listen to either. Hay itself has little to offer. In fact I could find absolutely nothing to point out to you dear Reader on this leg.

Notable Buildings in Hay
 






And so with tiredness looming I arrived at Deniliquin at 1.30pm. This will do for the day and so after lunch (at Macas) the Riverside Caravan Park was my calling. After clothes washing at the usual "Pay-as-u-go" laundry at the Park and a welcome long, hot, shower I did freshen up. Fortunately I had been directed to a spot right next to the Edward River, a peaceful surrounding in which to settle.
  Deniliquin lies within the traditional lands of the Wamba Wamba and Perrepa Perrepa Aboriginal nations, two names that I had not come across before. during the thousands of years of their occupation they must have witnessed the change of course of the Murray River that created what is now known by its traditional name, Kolety (pronounced Koltech) River also known as the Edward. The River runs through the centre of a Town that was once a crossing place. With a population of 8000 it is of reasonable extent. History dates back to 1840 when the Edward River was discovered. By 1843 a large landholding of 700,000 acres had been established with further development culminating in the gazetting of a town in 1850. Today, while the district still supports a thriving Wool Industry, there is a greater emphasis on the production of Beef Cattle, Fat Lambs, Oil seeds, Dairying and Cereal Crops. Deniliquin is also now the centre of an extensive Rice growing region and is home to one of the largest Rice Mills in the world.
  Its been a long road from Ardlethan to Deniliquin for sure.



The Edward River Deniliquin
 








 
  
 

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