MIDDLETON HOTEL and THE HILTON HOTEL RUINS

  Leaving Winton after a very relaxed couple of days we began our trek into the true Qld outback and headed along the Kennedy Development Road towards Boulia 360 kms to the NW. Typically, Development Roads are minor routes, usually narrow, single lane and most often constructed with bitumen.  As we travel in convoy, it is necessary to pull over and stop when a Road Train, Car or Caravan approaches from either direction,  since overtaking or passing other traffic is impossible most of the time. I must add however, that to come across another vehicle of any sort only happens three or four times per day at most.
  The mostly straight and at times gently undulating Kennedy traverses vast treeless plains of Mitchell grass, with it's green tinge that hints of a little rain in the recent past,  that extend to the horizon in all directions. Since the Coaster is slower than the other more modern vehicles in the group, I often find myself travelling as if alone, reflecting on the beauty of the outback scenery while I dodge road kill every few kms and marvel at the sight of huge eagles rising from their meal when startled by my approach.


  Conveniently, at almost exactly the half way point to Boulia, the welcome sight of Middleton or more correctly the Middleton Hotel decides for us where we will camp tonight. At first I could not fathom why anyone would contemplate building a Pub way out here, that is, until I discovered that it was originally a Cobb & Co coach stopping place. Even in the relative comfort of our modern vehicles this is a hot and sticky drive, I can't begin to imagine what it would be like in the summer heat travelling for days horse drawn.
  The Pub with all it's idiosyncratic character is as "outback" as one would ever find ( I have seen a few during my travels). Like the half dozen locals that had come from surrounding Stations for a beer and a chat who didn't acknowledge our intrusion on their turf;  like the tiny bar that didn't have any beer on tap and the adjoining dining room that doubled as the household lounge room, ( complete with a huge exercise machine that managed to block any clear view of the TV ) and it's solitary table with not quite enough chairs for everyone; like the lovable Val, the chatty Landlady and her hubby Les with the gravel voice and his almost incoherent Aussieness; like the son who musters cattle for a living with the one-man helicopter that was parked beside the Pub; like the dinner menu that consisted only of Corned Silverside and Veggies or Sausages, Eggs and Chips just for Billeeeeeee; like the petrol bowsers that looked as though from the 1930's, long since run dry; like the solar powered Telstra Phone Box way out on it's own in the paddock next door ( and it actually worked) and finally like the two trained Camels that Les used to pull the Cobb & Co coach.
  If all this wasn't as satisfyingly authentic as it could be, then our camp across the road beside the ruins of the original Hilton Hotel and an unusable Camp Kitchen added just a little more charm.
  I can speak for all in saying that a night at the Middleton Hotel should be on every travellers bucket list.  As the Convoy set out early next morning en route to Boulia via the Lillyvale Hills and Hamilton Channels, Val stood at the Pub threshold and waved all in turn goodbye with I am sure some gratitude for a respite to her undoubtedly lonely life.
  In summary; Just wonderful!  
(Click on a photo to enlarge)

The Middleton

The Hilton Hotel

\\

Moon Rock

Moon Rock

Petrified Wood as hard as any rock

WINTON Qld and THE LONG WATERHOLE BUSH CAMP

 The 180 km drive from Longreach, across desolate plains of Mitchell grass, taught me that there is a beauty in solitary nothingness. This is indeed is the gateway to the true outback of Qld.
  First impressions of Winton was of a typical small far western Qld country community centre but I soon found that it was there was a richness of interesting aspects that belied the towns tiny size. Lying at the junction of the Lansborough Hwy that leads to Cloncurry far to the NW and the Kennedy Development Rd that will soon take us deeper into desolation and eventually to Boulia and the end of the bitumen,
   Winton sits on the Great Artesian Basin from which the town's water supply bursts to the surface at 83C degrees before being channelled through cooling ponds prior to distribution for use. It does not end there, Australia's dinosaur trail also begins here, on the edge of the Diamantina Catchment ( that feeds lake Eyre) and in fact a number of dinosaur fossils, including 'Elliot', a sauropod. In 2009, three dinosaur genera, Australovenator, Wintonotitan and Diamantinasaurus, were discovered near the town.
  But wait there is more! Not only was Winton the birthplace of Qantas in 1920 ( the company's first flight took place from here in 1921) it is probably best known as the home of "Waltzing Matilda". It is the place where Banjo Paterson wrote our favourite song in 1895, while visiting nearby Dagworth Station.The music for the song was arranged by Christina Macpherson, the sister of the station manager who was visiting at the same time. Legend has it that the first public performance of "Waltzing Matilda" occurred at the Lord Gregory Hotel on the 6th April, 1895.
  As if that was not enough, finally there is "Arno's Wall", a structure 2 metres high and seventy metres long constructed from concrete and rock in which Arno has embedded a myriad of items that includes, complete motorbikes, boat propellers, parts of old machinery. vintage typewriters and old lawnmowers among many others.

  And finally our 2 day visit was made even more enjoyable by bush camping beside the nearby Long Waterhole.

This bloke was about 4 cm long

LONGREACH Qld - A NEW MEMBER JOINS THE GROUP

 We have reached Longreach and today, we were joined at the Apex Riverside Park Campground by another "Grey Nomad" member, Colleen, in her Winnebago Motorhome, increasing our Convoy to 5 rigs and 6 people. Colleen had stayed with us for a couple of days back at Bedford Weir and after hearing of our planned great trek west, was excited enough to come along.

Longreach is  the last major town until we make it to Mt Isa, about 800 kms to the NW. The town, around 700 kms from the coast west of Rockhampton on the Tropic of Capricorn with a population of close to 4500, was named after the "long reach" of the Thomson River.  It was gazetted in 1887, and the railway reached the town in 1892, causing population growth. The main industries of the area are cattle, sheep, and, more recently, tourism. It is a friendly place, ideal for the RV traveler with it's Supermarkets, Medical Centre, assorted Variety Stores and the free camp at the Riverside Park, home for us for a few days. There are also many interesting activities and points of interest to keep one occupied for a couple of days although most come with quite hefty participation or entry charges which may, as in my case, be hard to justify on the tight budget of this trip. I am sure though that in the not too distant future, I will return to Longreach to take in the Australian Stockman's Hall of Fame that pays tribute to our stockmen and women, early pioneering legends and the Royal Flying Doctor's service; the Qantas Founders Museum commemorating the company and it's contribution to aviation; a Paddle Wheeler dinner cruise on the Thomson River and an authentic ride in a replica Cobb & Co coach complete with I am told, an exciting gallop through the bush.
Unfortunately, although the Riverside park met all our needs and was handy to town it was not very picturesque.

 
 
 
   

LLOYD JONES WEIR - BARCALDINE Qld

  Another 100 odd Kms and we reach Balcaldine and the site of the "Tree of Knowledge" . The following extract from Wikipedia describes it's historical significance:

  "Barcaldine played a significant role in the Australian labour movement and the birth of the Australian Labor Party. In 1891, it was one of the focal points of the 1891 Australian shearers' strike, with the Eureka Flag flying over the strike camp. The landmark Tree of Knowledge, under which the strikers met, stood outside the railway station. In 2006, persons unknown poisoned the tree with the herbicide Roundup, which led to its demise.
  One of the first May day marches in the world took place during the strike on 1 May 1891 in Barcaldine. The Sydney Morning Herald reported that of the 1,340 men that took part, 618 were mounted on horses. Banners carried included those of the Australian Labor Federation, the Shearers' and Carriers' Unions, and one inscribed 'Young Australia'. The leaders wore blue sashes and the Eureka Flag was carried. The Labor Bulletin reported that cheers were given for "the Union", "the Eight-hour day", "the Strike Committee" and "the boys in gaol". "

  After an hour or so looking around town, the convoy continue a short distance to a free, camping, ground at Lloyd Jones Weir on, I believe, Lagoon Creek a tributary of the Alice River. Billeeeeeee, Jules, Marj and I settled in but where was Mel? After a short time all came to realize that she may have lost her way. After some discussion Billeeeeeee and Jules volunteered to go and look for Mel while Marj and I would remain at the camp in case she eventually found her way. As it later transpired, Mel had indeed became lost and decided to continue on to our next planned stop at Longreach about 100 km further west, where in the end she was found by the volunteer trackers. All was returned to normal when we were reformed the group at Longreach next day.
(Click on a photo to enlarge)

A stroll along the banks of the Weir

   

The Shoe Tree